By Anita Draycott

Join gondoliers in rustic bacaros (wine bars) all over town where a glass of vino costs about a euro and a plate of cichetti (savory snacks) such as marinated artichokes, a cod mixture spread on polenta squares and mini salami sandwiches, costs about €4. Try Cantina Do Mori, San Polo 429, near the Rialto Market.